The Different Types Of Persian Embroidery

Embroidery is one of the most original and beautiful Iranian arts. The variety of this art is so great that one can understand the authenticity and the region to which that embroidery belongs to, according to the use of colors and the type and method of sewing. It is stated in many books that embroidery is the art of decorating fabric with simple and colorful threads, and it has different types, among which are needlework, tapestry, patchwork,  coin embroidery, golabton embroidery, etc.

“Roudoozi” or “Roukaari” is an art in which various patterns are created on fabrics without patterns or patterns by sewing or pulling a part of the weft of the fabric.

Roudoozi is one of the ways of fabric decoration which is done by needle.

The type of pattern, the threads used in the embroidery and the density of the stitches can also indicate the social status of the wearer of that dress.

In general, it can be said that different embroidery designs have unique characteristics that express the culture, environment and customs of people in different regions.

How long has embroidery existed in Iran?

The art of embroidery is very old, so traces of this art can be seen in the works left from the Achaemenid period. These works show that Iranians were very interested in luxurious clothes and decorating fabrics; But the oldest embroidery in Jamande dates back to the Seljuk era.

The remarkable thing about the embroidery left over from different periods of Iran’s history is that in the Sassanid era, the patterns used on the embroidery are very similar to the patterns used on sculptures, plaster casts, metal containers, etc.

In the Ilkhanid period, the influence of Chinese people’s art on embroidery is very evident.

 

But as it is evident from the evidence, during the Timurid period, the country’s embroidery artists were forced to migrate and most of the people who were skilled in this art traveled to the city of Samarkand. This is why no artworks from this period have survived.

The peak of the art of embroidery in Iran was the Safavid era. The progress of this art in this period has been so much that no trace of the influence of Chinese art can be seen anymore.

Among the common types of embroidery in the Safavid era, we can mention glabton embroidery, landre embroidery, pattern embroidery, ten-one embroidery, sequin embroidery, tapestry embroidery, cocoon embroidery, sekme embroidery, flower embroidery, glass embroidery, vermilion embroidery, pearl embroidery, and bergamot embroidery.

This art continued in the Afsharia and Zandiyeh era with the same glory as the Safavid era, until during the Qajar era, embroidery reached all the regions of Iran. It was during the Qajar period that embroidery, Zoroastrian embroidery, cashmere embroidery, cream embroidery, ajideh embroidery, samosa embroidery reached their peak and patte embroidery made remarkable progress.

How many categories are day embroidery divided into?

According to the research, some researchers believe that embroidery is divided into three categories and others believe that it is divided into six categories.

According to some who divide this art into three categories, the types of embroidery are:

Embroidery that sews all over the fabric with thread to create a pattern on it. Examples of this type of embroidery include Baloch needlework, Rasht crochet and Kerman patte embroidery.

The embroidery in which the thread passes through the weft of the fabric and creates a mesh and color for it. One of the examples of this type of embroidery is Isfahan needlework.

The first category: elaborate embroidery, whose main background is hidden under colorful stitches. Bukhara embroidery, pattern embroidery, crochet embroidery, patte embroidery, series embroidery, Mamqan embroidery, Baloch embroidery and Kurdish embroidery are examples of embroidery that are included in this category.

The second category: embroidery that only a part of them is sewn and the rest of the work is filled with the background color. Silk embroidery, cream embroidery, braid embroidery and double embroidery are among these types of embroidery.

The third category: there are embroidery that is sewn in a special way. Examples of this type of embroidery are Isfahan needlework and net embroidery.

The fourth category: embroideries made with metal threads. such as: glabton embroidery, ten-one embroidery, keram embroidery, cash embroidery and tapestry embroidery

Embroidery tools

Different tools are used in different types of embroidery, and the types of fabric and thread are the common tools of all these embroidery. It is natural that the type of thread and fabric will be different depending on the type of embroidery.

The most important use of day embroidery:

Rudozis are used to decorate rugs, tablecloths, cushions, pillowcases, shoes, clothes, mattresses, car seats, etc. The artists of different fields of embroidery are usually women and they also use these arts for wall hangings and handkerchiefs.

 

Examining the motifs used in all kinds of embroidery

In general, the motifs used in all types of embroidery can be divided into four categories: natural motifs, plant motifs, geometric motifs and animal motifs.

Natural motifs: These motifs are motifs that are related to nature and are designed with inspiration from it. Patterns such as the sun, trees, birds and…

Plant motifs: It is no secret that flowers and plants have a special place in Iranian handicrafts. These motifs are usually motifs that are first imprinted in the artist’s mind and then depicted. They sit next to each other as symbols of nature and are completely abstract. Of course, sometimes they step into the valley of realism and display a role of flowers. Flowers that often include bushes, marigolds, four-leaf clovers, and evening primroses, etc.

Sometimes plants and flowers are sewn together with other decorative items and sometimes separately, but the interesting point is

They are usually embroidered next to each other in a certain order.

Animal motifs: these motifs are sometimes abstract and sometimes real. Patterns that are often designed based on the characteristics of animals and are only a symbol of them.

Animal motifs are usually placed next to other motifs such as plants and flowers. The most animals whose images are used in embroidery are deer and peacocks. All kinds of slime designs and plants are also used to decorate around these motifs.

Geometric patterns: Geometric patterns play a big role in traditional Iranian embroidery. The basic elements of these motifs are triangles, squares and rhombuses.

Geometric motifs that are usually used in the embroidery of Sistan and Baluchistan are: Edink, Ben Tas, Topkeg, Shida, Hurdel, etc.

Broken motifs: Broken motifs are patterns that consist of several straight and oblique lines. These motifs are among the most basic embroidery motifs.

Gardan motifs: These motifs became popular in Iran from the beginning of the 9th century AH. In these motifs, flowers, flowers and simple rotating branches are usually used. These motifs are also called tangerine.

Motifs: These motifs include a set of different motifs that are abstractly or realistically placed next to each other. Patterns are usually formed in rhomboid frames on the fabric surface.

 

Today, the art of embroidery can be seen in Europe, Africa, Oceania, North America and Latin America. However, these embroidery designs are completely different from Asian and Iranian types.

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Everything related to Balochi needlework and its cultural identity

Balochi needlework is one of the most beautiful Iranian cultural arts, which is widely used among the people of Baluchistan, but unfortunately, there is no detailed history available regarding the history of this art, but some studies show that Balochi needlework was first developed by the “Ilkhani” tribe.

The art of needlework is very popular among Baloch women, and the people of Baluchistan consider this art as an expression of their culture and traditions. This method of embroidery is the most used method to decorate clothes, especially simple and local clothing. 

For example, on women’s clothing (mostly traditional Balochi dresses) , needlework is used in four parts. These parts include the top of the sleeves, the chest area, and the lower part of the chest, which is sewn vertically to the bottom of the dress, as well as the pockets (and in the clothes that also include pants, the lower part of the pants are also embroidered.) 

The beautiful art of Baloch needlework is one of the most authentic Iranian methods in the field of embroidery, and researchers have found similar works of this art in pre-Islamic petroglyphs and pottery. This shows how this form of art goes way back. 

What kind of stitches are used in Balochi needlework?

As we mentioned, needlework is one of the most common original arts of embroidery in Iranian handicrafts, decorating fabric using regular geometric shapes derived from natural elements is the main feature of needlework that has made it popular. But in relation to Balochi needlework, it can be said that the type of stitching in each region of Sistan and Baluchistan province has differences from each other and in each region a special name has been chosen for the type of stitching.

In general, two types of sewing are very common among the people of Baluchistan.

The role and place of needlework among Baloch people

Always Wearing the traditional Balochi clothes is a certain norm among the Baloch people. 

So needlework in traditional clothes can be considered a part of the culture of this province, the symbols sewn in traditional clothes can be considered ethnic belonging. 

It is interesting to know that the art of needlework is also popular among the Baloch people of Pakistan, Afghanistan and Turkmenistan.

Tools used for needlework

Needlework is an art in which the artist can create with just a few simple tools. Of course, let’s not forget the sufficient skill and hard work and persistence that goes into it. 

The working tools in this industry are:

1- needle

2- Thimble

3- Scissors

The needle or “Suchen” (in Balochi language is called Suchen or Sichen) is the main tool, the size of the needle can be changed depending on the type of sewing and the desired fabric. 

Raw materials needed in needlework:

Regarding needlework, you probably can guess that thread and fabric are the main raw materials that are needed. The important thing about these raw materials is that in this art, colors are limited and you are only allowed to use six colors.

The use of these colors has a special order and there are rules that the artist must follow. 

The colors used in fabric are:

Burgundy or maroon, red, orange, black, white, green and blue. 

The colors of “Suchen Duzi” (needlework)  threads:

1- Seven-color thread (this type of thread originally contains 6 colors)

2- two-color yarn (brown and red yarn)

3- Use of single color thread (white, black or brown)

The threads used in this art are usually silk threads, because these threads are of better quality and give a better effect to the sewing pattern. 

Types of work in Balochi needlework

In Balochi needlework, sewing is usually done in two ways, this sewing can include a heavier type of work or small work. The former’s stitches are said to be a type of needlework that has a high level of delicacy, and basically, these types of stitches are very time-consuming and require a lot of effort, because the motifs in the elaborate designs are very small and delicate; In contrast to smaller designs and micro-stitches, which is a type of stitch that the embroiderer takes less time to do, because in these designs, large patterns are used. Clothes and items that have the heavier type of stitching usually have a much higher price.

Application of Balochi needlework

In general, we know that Balochi needlework is used to decorate all kinds of artistic products that are cloth in Balochistan, but without a doubt, the main use of Balochi needlework that has been popular since the past is to decorate Balochi women’s clothes, especially traditional clothes. This stitch is also used to decorate cloth tablecloths, curtains, rugs and needlework cushions and even some jewelry. It is interesting to know that nowadays needlework pieces are used in sewing some formal clothing like coats and even different bags.

The most important and impressive feature in Balochi needlework are the patterns. The generality of these designs are the same in all decorations, but Baloch women can make changes in them based on their taste and experience.

 

The types of patterns in needlework are:

Geometric patterns:

Geometric patterns are one of the most widely used motifs in needlework, geometric patterns can be very diverse due to their characteristics, the use of proportions in geometric shapes such as triangles, rhombuses, squares, and other shapes.

Animal motifs:

In embroidery, animal patterns are divided into realistic patterns and abstract patterns. Abstract animal motifs are usually derived from the characteristics of animals that exist in Baluchistan; For example, the camel tail design is one of the most widely used needlework patterns.

But the realistic animal motifs refers to the design of the specific look of animals, the use of these designs in needlework is very rare, unlike abstract animal motifs, and these motifs are usually used to create other arts such as rugs and carpets.

Plant patterns:

Plant motifs are basically the transformation of realistic flowers into a symbolic appearance, the existence of high diversity in flowers is the reason for using these symbols in needlework. Women use their creativity to create plant patterns. 

Plant patterns are mostly abstract designs that are created by maintaining geometric features.

Human patterns: 

These patterns are also very abstract and they don’t necessarily look like a human, but have similar characteristics and are a product of very creative minds. 

As we said, needlework production has expanded and is not only limited to the traditional clothes of Baluchistan, nowadays artists in handicrafts use this art to create other works such as bedspreads, rugs, tablecloths, curtains, ties, bags and even shoes.

you can purchase all kinds of Balochi needlework handmade by th women of Baluchistan at https://roostatish.com/

You can also click on the links bellow to read about: 

How much do you know about traditional embroidery (Golduzi) in Iran?

Introduction to traditional embroidery (Golduzi) in Iran:

Traditional embroidery in Iran has a long history and great popularity. Every household has at least 1 member that knows how to make embroidered items and if not, you can surely find a good amount of embroidery.

 Nowadays, many clothes, hand bags, fabrics, etc., are combined with colorful needlework or “Golduzi” embroidery to add to their charm. 

 But do you know how long this form of art has been around? Have you ever paid attention to the pattern and design of embroidered fabrics and do you know what each one symbolizes? Do you know how many types of embroidery and needlework there are in Iran?

  If you are interested in knowing more about this beautiful art or     wondered about it, then read more:

What is “Golduzi”?

“Golduzi” means to sew a certain design on fabric with a special needle and thread.

 Since long ago, people in Iran draw and come up with beautiful ideas and patterns that can be used on fabric, and then embroidery artists fill this design with different colors and finally it becomes a painting or a design on a tablecloth, scarf, dress and more.

 At first, the designs that were chosen for embroidery included all kinds of flowers or animals, but with the development and expansion of this art, the design expanded and became more complex and unique. Nowadays, we see the embroidery of paintings and more contemporary designs on fabric.

Get to know the history of traditional embroidery in Iran:

The art of embroidery has a very long history and sewing different designs on clothes has flourished since the past. Pants and skirts that were covered with different flower designs or any other pattern can be seen in the works left from ancient times. 

If you have been to Persepolis, you must have noticed the designs on people’s clothes carved on the stone walls there.

Therefore, this itself is one of the reasons that shows the existence of embroidery at that time. Also, by studying history, one cannot ignore Alexander The Great’s interest in Iranian “Golduzi” art, and even from the designs left in Taq-e Bostan, we can notice the floor coverings and embroidered fabrics with very beautiful designs.

 During the Safavid era, Iranian embroidery reached its peak and became very popular among the artists of different regions.

“Golduzi” in Iran and the rest of the world:

Embroidery artists and fans are not only in Iran. 

You can find special embroidered fabrics all over the world.

 Here are some examples:

The art of mirror work embroidery: 

This type of embroidery is a combination of thread and mirror embroidery.it is also called “Sheesha”. Some believe that the name “Sheesha” embroidery  is taken from the Persian language (meaning glass); But today this art is more visible in India, China and Afghanistan. Fabrics embroidered with glass are not only used for clothes, but you can also use them to decorate your home or household items such as sofas, curtains, tablecloths, bedspreads, etc. Of course, fabrics embroidered with mirrors can also be found in Sistan and Baluchistan regions of Iran.

Mexican embroidery:

Mexican embroidery:

The patterns used in this form of Mexican art is a combination of flowers and animals. This embroidery is also called “Otomi” embroidery. among the different designs, you can find a design full of color embroidered by Mexican artists.

Marash embroidery: Marash embroidery is from Armenia and has many fans among girls and women of that country. To increase the charm and beauty of embroidered fabrics, artists combine them with jewels and stones and. If you want to know about the type of Marash embroidery designs, it should be said that they are inspired by birds, religious and symbols and plants.

Spanish embroidery: This type of embroidery, which was very popular in Europe, meant embroidery with gold thread on black silk fabrics.

Female artists in the cities and villages of Iran, including Northern Khorasan, Razavi Khorasan, etc., are engaged in traditional embroidery and have been able to send embroidered fabrics to various countries in the world. This issue has been able to boost the economy of the villages as well as the awareness of people all over the world with Iranian art. In addition to traditional embroidery in Iran, we also see young artists with modern and contemporary designs and roles who have also been able to create a lot of creativity in the world of clothing.

Different designs in embroidery

As mentioned in the previous sections, embroidery designs in the past were influenced by the culture, religion and symbols of each region. For this reason, the role of nature and animals can be seen in old embroidery fabrics, and even happy or calm colors were chosen according to the mood and culture of each region. In Europe, some people used to sew their family emblems on cloth. So for the people, each of the embroidery patterns was a symbol of the beliefs and culture they lived by.

Let’s analyze some Turkmen patterns:

1- In Turkmen embroidery and needlework, we see the role of “Quchaq” or “Quchoq”, which is the meaning and concept of a ram’s horn. Artists used to embroider this design because the ram was a symbol of strength and power.

2- The next design is the “Ichian” or yellow scorpion.

The people of Dasht Qaraqum chose the design of the yellow scorpion to push away bad and evil events.

Animals were embroidered on Turkmen clothes for various reasons such as warding off bad events or because of their religious beliefs and beliefs about some animals.

3- Others, due to the presence of spiders in their daily life, used the design on different types of fabric.

4- The design of a garden has been a symbol of agriculture and cohabitation.They used to embroider the design of four eyes on the fabric to protect themselves.

5- Due to the presence of Turkmen women in wars, the presence of war tools can be seen in ornaments and in the embroidery designs of fabrics.

There are many other designs such as: “Yafarq” or leaf, pendant, etc. These are also embroidered on clothes, shawls and pants.

Needlework curtain, the art of Khorasani people

The art of needlework has been a symbol of the ancients’ attention to their surroundings as well as the importance of beauty and art. Needlework in Khorasan has become an art full of meaning and love, and wonderful designs are combined with imagination, art and symbols. Khorasan needlework can be seen on curtains, quilts, clothes, rugs, covers of the Qur’an and other fabrics. Many researches have been done in the field of Khorasan needlework curtains, and each of these articles has tried to show the concept and beauty of this art.

Among the things that can be done for this very beautiful art is study and research, as well as accuracy in embroidered designs on fabrics.

Get to know the art of Bukhara embroidery

Bukhara embroidery is a type of embroidery art style, and the reason for choosing its name is that there is a lot of silk and cotton in the city of Bukhara, and for this reason, artists decided to implement a method called Bukhara embroidery. In Bukhara, embroidery is done by a special sewing thread. The needlework covers the base fabric so much that it’s not easily visible.

 It’s not possible to definitively determine the origin of Bukhara embroidery in Iran; But some signs in history indicate that this art flourished during the Seljuk period and reached its peak during the Ilkhani and Timurid periods, and also during the Safavid era, we witnessed a good prosperity and growth in Bukhara embroidery.

Bukhara embroidered patterns on fabric

Some of the patterns that are created with Bukhara embroidery include: all kinds of flowers such as pomegranate flowers, carnation flowers, geometric patterns, various leaves, bergamot and many other designs. The colors used in this art consist of: white, brown, orange, jade green, wine red, yellow, etc.

Some of the most beautiful Bukhara embroidered fabrics can be found in famous museums such as the Louver, Paris Museum and other important museums of the world. If you travel to these countries, be sure to go to the museum and see these fascinating works of art.

Traditional embroidery in Iran and the tourism industry:

If you are interested in embroidery and all kinds of embroidered fabrics, and even if you are not familiar with this art, it is better to read this written text carefully. Forgetting the traditional arts of a country causes a part of its culture to disappear, as well as the role of the artists who work in this field; 

But unfortunately we usually ignore them.

If we continue, the tourism industry will suffer a lot. As you know, if a village is active in the field of embroidery and can sew fabrics with beautiful designs, the number of tourists and travelers who choose that area for sightseeing and traveling will increase.

if you would like to purchase different types of embroidered items, visit roostatish.com 

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