The art of “Pateh doozi”

Let’s find out more about the art of “Pateh Doozi” 

Pateh doozi is the name of this unique and beautiful needlework art, a souvenir from the heart of the Lut desert.

“Pateh” is defined in the Farsi dictionary as wool and fluff, but refers to stitches that create floral patterns on handmade woolen fabrics.

This art is one of the oldest forms of embroidery in Iran, which is also known as “Fath doozi” and chain embroidery. The designs and patterns all stem from the imagination of women artists of different provinces. But Pateh is originally from Kerman.

Unfortunately, There is no detailed information about the history of Pateh. But, Percy Sykes has mentioned some things about Pateh in his travelog. Sykes describes that Pateh was mostly worn as

Kermani shawls. And that they are woven with fluff or wool, and its patterns and stitches are similar to the pattern of a rug. This item is more delicate than a carpet, and it is mostly woven by the hands of young children.

He says the passion and love for this art never  tires the kermani people out and each piece of pateh is made with love.

 Another type of Kerman textiles, which has more of an artistic aspect, is the embroidered Pateh, which women used to sew on simple shawls, and nowadays, on a thicker fabric, with woolen thread designs.

One of the first signs of embroidery was found in the 12th century. Another example that was related to the 13th century, was the sun embroidery, which was remembered by master Farajullah Kermani and is kept as an ancient art work in the Museum of Decorative Arts.

Among other signs left from Pateh, we can refer to the example that was placed on the tombstone of Shah Nematullah. This sample was sewn in 1294 and it took three years to finish. Twelve Kermani artists worked hard to sew this Pateh. This Pateh is now located in the museum of Shah Nematullah tomb located in Mahan city. Patchwork consists of several types of stitches that begin after the dyeing and pollination stage is completed. These stitches include line embroidery, water embroidery, surface embroidery and leaf embroidery.

Types of pate designs:

   Plant motifs:

Bushes and flowers are the most used motifs used in Kermani Pateh. Therefore, the people of Kerman region can be considered flower and plant lovers, because they have left traces of flowers and plants in all their arts!

       tree pattern:

The tree design usually includes a tree of life or a cedar tree, which is often used on rugs and curtains. Pateh cedars were upright until the end of the 5th century. And after that they took on a curved shape. Cypress was the only tree in the paintings of Persepolis.

But little by little, it lost its place and became an ornamental image, until during the Safavid era, cedar was used as a symbol of narrative command and absolute power.

Almond Pateh:

It is said that the almond pattern design is the same as the cedar tree design. The cypress, which is slightly bent and without additional decorations, are lined up one after the other.

“Ghahr-o-Ashti” (Anger and Reconciliation) pattern:

Imagine two sewn shapes that are placed back to back. And between them, there is another sewn design such as a vase, a lily or a broken leaf. That’s how the “Ghahr-o-Ashti ” pattern is supposed to look like. 

Flowers and vases:

Flowers that grow in that area are usually used in the art of Kerman embroidery. Flowers such as carnations, Abbasi tulips, lilies, etc.

Arm bands:

These motifs are reminiscent of the armbands that Iranians used to give to wrestlers in the past.

 Bergamot:

The bergamot design is reminiscent of old Iranian gardens and backyards. 

Overall, Pateh is a great way to get closer and learn more about Persian culture. Nowadays, Pateh is widely used as home decoration items such as table cloths, wall tapestry, etc. it’s also a very popular gift amongst Iranians.

If you are interested in purchasing Pateh, you can click on these links and visit the roostatish website